On the Beach--Waikiki's beachfront bars offer many possibilities, from the Royal Hawaiian Hotel's Mai Tai Bar (tel. 808/923-7311), a few feet from the sand, to the unfailingly enchanting House Without a Key at the Halekulani (tel. 808/923-2311), where the breathtaking former Miss Hawaii, Kanoelehua Miller dances hula to the riffs of Hawaiian steel-pedal guitar under a century-old kiawe tree. With the sunset and ocean glowing behind her and Diamond Head visible in the distance, the scene is straight out of Somerset Maugham -- romantic, evocative, nostalgic. It doesn't hurt, either, that the Halekulani happens to make the best mai tais in the world. Halekulani has the after-dinner hours covered, too, with light jazz by local artists from 10:15pm to midnight nightly.
In the Aloha Tower Marketplace--Unlike Waikiki, there are no swaying palm trees at Aloha Tower Marketplace, on the waterfront between piers 8 and 11, Honolulu Harbor (tel. 808/528-5700), but the landmark Aloha Tower at Honolulu Harbor, once Oahu's tallest building, does occupy Honolulu's prime downtown location -- on the water, at a naturally sheltered bay, near the business and civic center of Honolulu. Since its construction, the Aloha Tower Marketplace, 1 Aloha Tower Dr., has gained popularity as an entertainment and nightlife spot, with more than 100 shops and restaurants, including several venues for Honolulu's leading musical groups.
Here you will see tugboats and cruise ships from the popular open-air Pier Bar tel. 808/536-2166) and various other venues in the marketplace offering live music throughout the week. There's live music nightly at the Pier Bar: contemporary Hawaiian, swing, alternative rock, and jazz. At the Pier Bar's main stage, the Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant (tel. 808/599-4877), diners swing to jazz, blues, and island riffs with a changing slate of entertainers from sunset through the evening Wednesday through Saturday. And the food and beer are great, too. The roster of performers includes the cream of contemporary, and the Atrium Center Court features ongoing programs of foot-stomping good times. Hours at the Marketplace are daily 8am to midnight.
Most notable, however, is Don Ho's Island Grill (tel. 808/528-0807), a local hotspot, with Willie K. and other musical icons taking the stage throughout the year. It's worth calling to see who's playing. Also check out Chai's Island Bistro (tel. 808/585-0011), one of Honolulu's hottest nightspots.
Across the street from Aloha Tower Marketplace, the bar and lounge of Palomino (tel. 808/528-2400) is a magnet for revelers, often two deep at the bar. You'll find great appetizers, pizzas, service, and drinks, and you can order from the full dinner menu as well.
Downtown--The downtown scene is awakening from a long slumber, thanks to the performances at the Hawaii Theatre and the popular Nuuanu Avenue block parties, courtesy of some tenacious entrepreneurs who want everyone to love Nuuanu as much as they do. New and noteworthy is Hank's Café, on Nuuanu between Hotel and King streets (tel. 808/526-1410), a tiny, kitschy, friendly pub with live music nightly, open-mike nights, and special events that attract great talent and a supportive crowd. On some nights the music spills out into the streets and it's so packed you have to press your nose against the window to see what you're missing. At the makai end of Nuuanu, toward the pier, Murphy's Bar & Grill (tel. 808/531-0422) and O'Toole's Irish Pub (tel. 808/536-6360), which recently built an entertainment stage, are the downtown ale houses and media haunts that have kept Irish eyes smiling for years.
